Spiti (locally pronounced 'Piti') or the 'middle country', has its sub divisional headquarters at Kaza. The river Spiti originates at the base of the Kunzam range and flows eastward to join the Sutlej at Khab in Kinnaur. In practical isolation for centuries, Spiti has an intensely introvertive culture centred around its several monasteries- Dhankar, Ki, Tabo, Mud, Gungri, Lidang, Hikim, Sagnam, Mane Gogma and Giu to name a few. Spiti was loosely ruled for many centuries by a hereditary wazir, styled Nono. The majority of the people are Buddhists, followers of the Geluk-pa sect. The repetition of the mantra "Om mani padme hum" (literally, 'Behold, the jewel is in the lotus'), is constant; it is believed to bring good fortune and wash away all sins. For all the seeming bleakness, Spiti possesses a haunting beauty. The wildlife in the region includes the elusive snow leopard and ibex, found in the Pin valley.
Spiti has come to be known as the "fossil park of the world". The three villages Kibber, Kaza & Kye fall on the route faovourite among those looking for fossils. These villages are situated at heights between 13,500 ft. and 14,400 ft. above msl. Langza is famous for fossils of maritime life. These fossils are found on either side of Kang-yur and Paapen-yu nullahs near the village.
KAZA
Kaza, the sub-divisional headquarters of Spiti, is situated on the left bank of the Spiti river at an altitude of about 12,500 ft. above msl. The village is overlooked by steep ridges. The otherwise soporific place hums with activity of tourists during summer, who converge here for permits, current exchange, information, accommodation, petrol and to witness the annual trade fair which a number of visitors compare with the fairs in some of the gompa towns of Ladakh. Besides, Kaza makes a ideal base camp for all treks and tours within the valley. Guides, porters, pack animals and most importantly permits for treks can be obtained in Kaza.
Kazatown-There are two rest houses in Kaza proper. The Electricity Board rest house is at Rangrik just 4 km away. It is the best in the valley. Kaza has one of the two Sa- kya- pa sect monasteries. The other monastery is at Hikkim. Opposite Kaza on the right bank of the Spiti river is Kyuling from where the nono of Spiti ruled over his subjects. Rani Damyanti, a descendent of this ruling, family, now resides in Kaza preserving all the stately charm of the yester years.
DHANKAR-
On the left bank of the Spiti river at a distance of 32 kms downstream from Kaza, near Shichling at an altitude of 3870 m, nestles the citadel of Dhankar, the official capital of Spiti. The citadel is built on a spur which projects into the main valley and ends in a precipice. The location of this fort is strategic as Spiti always had to suffer innumerable aggressions by its neighbors. The location allowed the Spitian to keep vigil on the approaches and to submit messages to surrounding inhabitations in case of danger. Whenever the Spitians were attacked, they built huge fires to signal meeting in the safe sanctuary of rocks, i.e., Dhankars. In the meeting all men and women decided the course of action to be taken against the aggressors.
According to the State Gazetteer, "(The fort) became notorious for housing a cavernous dungeon which the Nono used as prison. It contained a cell without doors having only a small opening at the top through which the condemned person was lowered and received his meals."
The fort of Dhankar now lies in ruins, but still is a place worthy of visit. From the remnants of the fort one can see vast expanses of the Spiti valley.
Dhankar is also of art historical importance. Founded between 7th and the 9th centuries, Dhankar's old temple complex occupies the southern part of the steep mountain slope of the village. It is known by the name of Lha-O-pa Gompa (monastery of the followers of Lha-O).
The monastery consists of a number of multi-storeyed buildings perched together, giving a fortress like impression. There are five different halls including Kanjur, Lhakhang, and Dukhang where a life size silver statue of Vajradhara, the Diamond Being, is placed in a glass altar embellished with scarves and flowers.
Most interesting at the Lha-O-pa gompa is the small chapel on the uppermost peak above the main monastery - Lhakhang Gongma. The building is decorated with depictions of Shakyamuni, Tsongkhapa and Lama Chodrag on the central wall Dhankar's main attraction, although least publicised, is a fresh water lake about 2.5 km from the village at a height of 13500 ft. Set amidst lush green pastures, the lake offers a perfect idyllic camping site. Some boating facilities are proposed to be introduced in the near future. Under the Desert Development Project of Spiti the common carp variety of fish has been introduced in this lake. No angling is, however, allowed in the lake.
Dhankar is approachable by a motorable road, good for small vehicles only, that branches off for Dhankar from the main Kaza - Samdu road at a point around 24 kms from Kaza. The branch road is 8 kms in length upto Dhankar.
There is no rest house in the village. If you plan to halt for night, do carry tents, sleeping bags and other provisions.
LHALUNG
From the small hamlet of Attargu the track leads through deserted and rugged terrain over heights of around 3800 metres into the Lingti valley. Lingti is the third biggest river, after the Pin which pours its great waters out into the spiti. The road into the Lingti valley leads along the slopes of the Lingti's right bank in serpentine curves from which one has a giddy view of the few medieval settlements along the river. After an hour-long drive the valley opens up a little for the rich pastures of Lhalung town, consisting of barley and the yellow rape that adds another beautiful colour to the reduced palette of Spiti.
A few of the chhortens lead up to the monastic site from the outskirts of the village. The compound consists of five buildings. At some spots fragmentary remains of a wall encircling all the buildings are to be found. The local tradition that the site once consisted of nine temples, together with the rich interior of the main chapel and the fact the building is also attributed to Rinchen Zangpo, may suggest that the temple like that of Tabo was designed as a Chokhor site, a place of learning and debate as opposed to a simple chapel for worship by local people.
The paintings on the walls are of recent date. Serkhang, the golden hall is completely overwhelmed by the number of deities present. The small chapel has a total of 51 deities, either mounted against the walls or placed on the central altar, of which the most are painted in gold.
KUNZAM PASS
This pass is situated at 60 kms from Gamphu on the Gramphu-Kaza- Sumdo road. It provides chief access to the Spiti-valley from Lahaul which is separated from the Spiti valley by the great Kunzom range, and from where the Spiti, pronounced Piti, the chief river of the area takes its source. Though higher than the Rohtang Pass, Kunzom is safer and provides easier ascent and descent. The altitude of this pass is about 4590 m. The panorama as viewed from the top is breathtaking. The lofty Shigri Parbat can be seen right in front in all its grandeur. The crest of the pass has been marked by a chhorten of stones erected ages ago. Recently a temple has been built on the top. A hut has also been built for the people to take shelter.
Kunzum Jot
The crest of the pass is marked by a wall of mani stones clearly suggesting that one is now stepping into a Buddhist country. A temple dedicated to Durga, the fierce female deity, was built by some gaddies but it could not withstand avalanches and today is in ruins. People believe that the deity has refused to live in the temple. She prefers to stay in the open. Her foot impressions worshipped by gaddies and local people.
There is a small hut about 200 m. away from the temple where travellers can find shelter during foul weather. For tourists it is a favourite halt for tea or snacks. From Kunzom one trek leads. Chandrataal, the lake of the Moon.
Giu Village: Located near the Indo-Tibet border, the village has a naturally preserved unique Mummy, which is more than 500 years old and is an attraction for the visitors. The village Giu is situated at a height of approx 10,000 feet above the sea level. The mummy in the village is placed in a room constructed on a hilltop. It is believed that this mummy is of a Lama, who died at the age of around 45 years and was found in a sitting posture. Presently, the mummy is kept in an open glass box. Giu village is approximately 10 km from Giu nallah and village is connected with link road. Giu nallah is between Sumdo and Tabo.
LOSSAR-
Lossar is the first inhabited village on the Spiti side if you advance to the valley from Manali over Kunzom pass. Situated at a height of 4,085 m., the village is singularly secluded. Sight of Lossar to a trekker coming down from Kunzom brings instant relief. The neatly white-washed mud houses with red bands look extremely picturesque. The contrast is rendered all the more appealing by verdant fields and willow plantations around the village. According to Gerard, "Lofty as the level of Lossar is, there is little in the landscape to betray its position when viewed in summer, embosomed in flourishing crops and herds of Pashmina wool goats. Yaks and horses meet the eye upon the high activities of the mountains, and an ardent sunshine keeps the air looming from the effect of mirage.
Losar-There is a small gompa in the village. The flat roofed houses are topped by white flagpole which the superstitious believe saves them from evil spirits and brings prosperity.
There is a PWD rest house at the edge of the village where one can stay. A few meters from the rest house from Spiti river in all its serenity. A small flight of steps leads to the river bank where one could even venture a swim.
The village grows seed potatoes and green peas besides traditional crops. Yak is the beast of burden. Ibex, blue sheep, etc. can be seen in the higher reaches around the village.
Porters, pack animals and guides for Chandrataal and other treks starting from Lossar can be hired from here.
The people of Lossar are very hospitable, it is common for the villagers to invite touring officials to their village for a binge where the gusts are regaled to the tunes of local music and dance an liberal helpings of chhang and arak. One wonder if the tourists are also accorded the same hospitality.
The inhabitants dress up more like their Tibetan counterparts and perform an interesting post harvest Yak dance which can be witnessed during La Darcha fair.
Lossar is surrounded by vast alpine, meadows which are frequented by herders from Kangra Mandi, Chamba, Kullu and Bilaspur. The shepherds believe a stay of two months in and around Spiti immunises their flock and increases their fertility.
KYE MONASTERY
Overlooking Kaza from a height of about 13,500 ft, the Kye monastery is the largest in the valley and holds a powerful sway over the most populous part of the valley around Kaza. The gompa is an irregular heap of low rooms and narrow corridors on a monolithic conical hill. From a distance is resembles the Thiksey monastery near Leh in Ladakh. The irregular prayer chambers are interconnected by dark passages, tortuous staircases and small doors.
Hundreds of lamas receive their religious training in the monastery. It is also known for its beautiful murals, thankas, rare manuscripts, stucco images and peculiar wind instruments that form part of the orchestra whenever Chham is enacted in the gompa in summer. Another interesting aspect of the gompa is its collection of weapons which may have been used to ward off marauders as also to maintain its control over people betraying a church-militant character.
Thousands of devotees from all over the world here attended the Kalachakra ceremony which was performed in August, 2000 by His Holiness Dalai Lama.Kalachakra initiation (Skt. Abhisheka, Tibetan Wang) is not just an elaborate puja or a religious congregation. It is a workshop in a grand scale to make an earnest effort by both the teacher and disciples to awaken their Buddha nature by the combined forces of teaching, prayer, blessing, devotion, mantra, yoga and meditation. It is an effort by every participant to try to discover the true and permanent peace for the sake of all others. The Buddhists believe mere presence during this elaborate initiation ceremony stretching over a few days, liberates the participant from suffering and bestows on him the bliss of Enlightenment.
The ceremony focuses on five main subjects - cosmology, psycho-physiology, initiation, sadhana and Buddhahood. A Kalachakra mandala and Viswatma deitiy in union with his consort are at the centre of this ceremony guiding the disciple through the tedious process of initiation.
The gompa is approached by road from Kaza (only 12 km). However, it is only 8.5 kms trek from Kaza.
KIBBER
Kibber is located at a height of about 14,200 ft in a narrow valley on the summit of a limestone rock. It is only 16 kms from Kaza and a bus service plies between these two places in summer. Kibber is a rather pleasant village with plenty of cultivation. The moment you get down from the bus you are greeted by lush green fields which look strikingly refreshing against the arid backdrop of lofty hills.
There are only 80 houses in the village. The remarkable feature about the architecture is the use of stone instead of mud or adobe brick used extensively in the valley. There are a civil dispensary, a high school, a post office, a telegraph office and a community TV set in the village. There is a monastery in Kibber which is named after Serkang Rimpochhe of Tabo. The lama breathed his last in Kibber in 1983 and when he was being cremated a water source erupted from that spot. Even today the source is being used by the villagers. There is a traditional trade route from Kibber to Ladakh over Parang La. The Spitians go to Ladakh to barter their horses for yaks or to sell for cash. The trek to Ladakh takes minimum 3 night halts. Permits are required for this trek.
PIN VALLEY
One of the four local units of Spiti is the Pin valley which lies on either side of the Pin river. Geographically, the Pin valley is shut off from the rest of Spiti by high mountains. The only opening has been provided by the Pin river that forces its way through a deep narrow gorge to join the main river Spiti, at Attargu.
The Pin valley is famous for its internationally recognised Chaumurti horses that are bred and sold for considerable sums in Rampur-Bushahar during Lavi fair and in Ladakh. The climate and the rich grass of the valley produce extremely sure footed horses able to negotiate great heights without much difficulty. A tourist in the Pin valley may see scores of horses, colts and fillies grazing on the river banks and some youths galloping away on these horses singing wildly in joyous abandon.
Horse racing and arrow shooting are very popular in the valley. A tourist may frequently come across arrow shooting competitions called Dhuvor.
Pin Valley NP-
Created in January 1987, Pin Valley NP stretches over an area of over 675 sq km in the uninhabited areas of the Pin and Paraiho river catchments; altitudes range from 3,500 to 6,000m. The landscape is typically ‘cold desert’ — high-altitude terrain with sparse vegetation — and boasts of fauna and flora characteristic of cold deserts. Pin Valley, along with most of Spiti, receives an annual rainfall of about 17.7 cm; the area does not get any monsoon rains. Western disturbances in winter and spring cause snowfall and the wind chill factor is high even in the daytime in winter. The minimum temperature may go down to minus 32 degree C in January-February. July and August are the warmest months, with temperatures rising to 30 degree C in August.
Herbaceous and shrub growth dominate here. The main woody species is juniper, which has become almost extinct in the park area. Shrubs, which are of the dry alpine variety, include wild rose, sea buckthorn and juniper. There is remarkable variety in the herbaceous vegetation, with columbine, kingcup, potentila and primula being the dominant species. Around 400 plant species are said to thrive in the area, among them many varieties of medicinal plants. In summer, wild flowers create a riot of colours in some areas. The glacial heights of the National Park are devoid of vegetation.
The incidence of grazing of goats, sheep, yaks and other domestic animals in the park is a matter of deep concern. In the prevailing geographical and climatic conditions, the rearing of these animals is indispensable. But what is causing the most damage is not the relatively smaller numbers of sheep and goats owned by the locals, but the large herds of animals brought in by shepherds of the neighbouring district of Kinnaur from June-October. Another area of concern is the collection of firewood. The severity of the winters here necessitates plenty of fuel to keep warm. In summer, locals use their yaks to collect any available plants in the area, often digging out entire plants, roots and all, for use as winter fuel. The process of deciding on the rights of locals is ongoing, and should be completed within the next couple of years, to help curb the pressures on the park.
Spiti’s populace is Buddhist and does not kill animals, resulting in the relative preservation of the wildlife of the area. Large herds of ibex and bharal or blue sheep can be easily spotted; the density of ibex is reported to be 2.29 per sq km. Well known as one of the last remaining habitats of the snow leopard, the park is believed to have 12 members of this highly endangered species. Several other rare and threatened species are protected in the Pin Valley, including the snow partridge and Himalayan snowcock
Lahaul Spiti is an emerging tourist place in Himachal having beautiful landscapes and interesting blend of Buddhism and Hinduism. Tourism in Lahaul Spiti offers a place which seems to be frozen in time. Although spoken as Lahaul Spiti, Lahaul and Spity are actually two valleys which are completely different from each other in almost everything. Where Lahaul is blessed by nature and nurtured by chandra and bhaga rivers, Spiti on the other hand is like a cold desert. Geologically and archaeologically, Spiti is a living museum. There are breathtaking valleys, trekking areas and some very famous monasteries here.
Kie Monastery- A number of fairs and festivals are celebrated in Lahaul Spiti i.e. Ladarcha fair, Pauri fair, Tribal fair, Tsheshu fair, Festival of light, Fagli festival and Gochi festival. Tourism in Lahaul Spiti offers a number of beautiful temples to visit around i.e. Trilokinath temple and Mrikula Devi temple. There are a number of Monasteries in Lahal Spiti i.e. Kie Monastery, Tabo Monastery, Yang Yud Gompa, Kungri Gompa, Guru Ghantal Gompa, Gemur Monastery, Sashur Gompa, Kardang Gompa, Dhankar Monastery etc. which provide tourists with a completely different tourism experience in Trans Himalaya.
Tandi Tourism- in Lahaul Spiti offers a number of famous places to explore around i.e. Keylong, Tandi, Khoksar, Gondhla, Jispa, Udaipur, Darcha in Lahaul Valley and Kaza, Dhankar, Spiti, Kunzum, Lossar and Kibber village in Spiti valley. As the two places Lahaul and Spiti are far different from each other, they provide completely different tourism experience. The curious mixture of Buddhism and Hinduism is the main feature of tourism in Lahaul and Spiti.
Chandra Tal lake- Tourism in Lahaul Spiti offers a number of beautiful lakes to visit around i.e. Chandra Tal lake, Suraj Tal lake and Dashir lake. All these lakes are among the most beautiful lakes in Himachal. Especially the Chandra Tal lake is worth a visit. There is an important wildlife park in Lahal Spiti named Pin Valley National Park.Pin Valley National Park contains a variety of rare animals such as woolly hare, Tibetan gazelle and snow Leopard. The entire area is a cold desert, interspersed with a few alpine meadows.
Lahaul Spiti offers something completely different to all the tourists who visit here. It is another important tourist destination in Tribal Voyage of Himachal. The lush green valley on one side and the cold desert on the other side, curious mixture of Buddhism and Hinduism make Lahaul Spiti a
place worth a visit.
The first across the 16300ft Pin Pass form the Kulu Valley into Spiti. At the end of the trek is an eight day drive to Simla visiting the age old Monastaries of Kye, Dhankar and Tabo which is regarded by many as next in significance to the Tholiang gompa in Tibet.Its murals date back to the 8th and 9th Century AD as in the year 996 the Tabo gompa was established.
The second option is to trek over the Bhaba Pass driving into Kinnaur from shimla.
The third option is to drive form Manali through Spiti and Kinnaur, finishing in Simla. The holiday necessiates stopping at very attractive campsites in the Greater Himalayas. Both options include a visit a Sangla.
The foot trek over the Pin Pass is not easy. A good degree of fitness is necessary and some trekking experience .It is worth any difficulty.
India, running parallel to the Tibetan border. Spiti Valley has only been opened to tourists since 1992.
This website is sub headed 'Eco Tourism' because our objective is to promote local people and businesses that will incorporate the Spitian community at large. All moneys paid for services mentioned on these web pages will go totally and directly to these local people. International tour operators come and go to Spiti, sometimes bringing their own tents, food, cooks, guides and leaving only rubbish behind. They do not support or mix with the community.
Self-sufficiency has been the tradition of the Spitian people and therefore employment for money is limited. Tourism is one of their few viable options. By supporting Eco Tourism in Spiti the people will not have to leave their valley for work which will help to preserve their unique culture.
